Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Installing 52” 300W Auxbeam X-series on an FJ Cruiser

I chose these lights because, in addition to the typical LED flood beams, they tout a separately-switched set of DRLs or spot beams. I planned to mount the lights on my bumper. However, as I gathered parts and waited for everything to arrive, I ended up believing they’d be in the way and susceptible to damage being right in front of the hood.

This is the “DRL” mode. They are way too bright to be DRLs except maybe if they were mounted well below the bumper.
DRLs at night

These are the floods. The artifact toward the bottom of the photo is a more perceptible representation of the bar itself.
Floods at night

Again, the DRLs, or spot beams, but during the day.
DRLs during the day

For the cleanest look, I wanted to bring the wiring in through the roof but was worried about putting a prominent hole right there in the open. I opted to pass the wire into the roof rack and through a hole located under the driver’s side rack foot. This required also putting a hole through the rack’s foot.
Hole through foot Hole through roof

This method also required dropping the headliner and running the load wires through the A-pillar. A time consuming and delicate but simple process.
Removing headliner

A view of the driver’s side mount and the switches. I wired the DRLs such that they can only be on when the car is on so I won’t accidentally drain my battery. I suspect the floods are bright enough that I won’t make that mistake with them.
Lightbar on mounts Switches on with no flash

Parts

1x Auxbeam 70021817 X-series light bar, https://www.auxbeam.com/70021817.
part auxbeam

1x Auxbeam wiring harness with relays and fuses, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1MTSGQ. This is the perfect harness for these lights as it has two relays, two fuses, and, if you intend to use them, two switches. The length of the load and switch runs was good with a disconnect on the switch side.
part relay harness

1x FJ Cruiser light bar mount, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B2KI7T2. Several people complained that these came with the “FJ” backward on one side. Mine were correct.
part lightbar mount

1x “LED Light Bar” switch for FJ Cruiser, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011KZE1B2.
part main switch

1x “Spot Lights” switch for FJ Cruiser, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EQV69NK.
part spot switch

Monday, November 9, 2015

Include location tags in your photos on Windows Phone

If you’ve tried to use an app such as Geo Cam to get locations from your photos and it says it can’t find EXIF data or tags, you may have Location in Photos set to off.

Please verify the following:
1. Launch "Settings"
2. Choose "applications"
3. Choose "photos+camera"
4. Check "Add location info to the pictures and videos I take"

Turn on location in photos (en)

Please let me know how it goes.

GPS Inaccuracy and Altitude

Unfortunately, we generally try out our new apps sitting at our desk, on the bus or subway, or in a waiting room.  Not places one expects to get good GPS signals.  In all likelihood, your phone is very capable of getting a great fix on your position when and where you’d really need it--outdoors. That said, sometimes you want to get the closest address or find out what street you’re on.

How many signals?  Signals from at least 4 satellites is good.  To determine a location on the surface of the Earth, 3 satellites is enough but isn’t great.  A fourth helps your phone trilaterate your altitude which is why you may get a position on Earth before the phone knows your altitude.

More inaccuracy.  If your signal bounced off a building or canyon wall and traveled further than expected to get to you, it can throw off the calculations.  Being indoors increases the likelihood of getting one of these indirect signals.

As always, please let me know how you do.

Screenshot8

Compass Calibration Issues

Everybody knows about the figure 8, right? Well, it turns out that not everyone does it the same way. As embarrassed as I may be about the production qualities of this video, it seems to help people figure it out. The best way I can describe it is to try to minimize movement to your wrist as much as possible.

A common misconception is that the calibration process varies by app or requires the app to be in some special calibration state. The truth is all you need is for an app to enable the compass. Calibration is handled by the Windows Phone operating system in coordination with the phone’s drivers.

If you’re using Jack of Tools, you may notice it will pop up a window describing how to calibrate. This simply happens when it notices the inaccuracy get greater than ±25°. This is considered a best practice for letting users know calibration is needed and how do it but it is not a necessary part of the calibration process.

If the compass simply won't calibrate, the best thing to do is to shutdown and restart the phone. Upon restarting, it will require calibration but often works better seemingly starting with a clean slate.

Please let me know if this helps!

How do I get my apps back on Windows Phone?

I get asked this pretty often. Usually it’s because someone got a new phone or had to wipe their phone but sometimes, even though the Windows Phone backup/restore is amazingly full featured, the reinstalled apps don’t see to be aware of their licenses. Assuming you logged into your new Windows Phone with the same information, you are still entitled to all the same apps and in-app purchases you made with your previous phone.

There are two main methods I suggest.

Option 1 - Re-download

Basically, you click the Buy again. Having already purchased it and assuming you've logged in with the same information you did with your prior phone, instead of prompting for money, it should say something like, "You already purchased this." I found this one scary myself because it really sounds like it's going to charge you again. Also, if you’re reacquiring many apps, this might be a little tedious.

Option 2 - Use the website

The other way requires the use of a desktop/laptop computer but is more clear about the fact that it's re-installing an already purchased app.

On a desktop computer (that is, not using your phone's browser):

  1. Go to: https://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/my/purchase-history?signin=true
  2. Sign in if you haven't already (there should be a link to do so in the upper,right).
  3. Here you will see the apps you've purchased. You can click "reinstall" to have your phone reinstall them.

As I always say, please let me know how it goes.